The quick answer: Understated ugly chic is about small, deliberate oddities, not novelty prints or loud clashing. Pick one awkward element per outfit, like an off proportion, a "wrong" earthy color such as olive or mustard, or a clumsy-on-purpose shoe, and keep the rest simple. Oscar Blackwood's fall edit is built on exactly that idea.
Ugly chic, the French idea of jolie laide ("pretty-ugly"), usually shows up online as maximalist clashing, chunky novelty sneakers and runway pieces that look strange off the runway. Most people don't dress like that on a Tuesday. The quieter version is easier to wear: one thing in the outfit is a little off, and the rest is calm enough that the oddity looks intended. Below are nine fall pieces that do this, grouped by the questions shoppers ask most.
What is understated ugly chic, and how is it different from the loud version?
Understated ugly chic uses one subtle "wrong" detail, like a strange proportion, a muddy color or a clunky shoe, inside an otherwise polished outfit, while the loud version stacks several quirky elements at once. The quiet version looks interesting. The loud version can tip into costume.
The look goes back to Miuccia Prada's mid-1990s collections, which used drab browns, sickly greens and awkward retro prints to question what "tasteful" meant. Since then, ugly-on-purpose shoes have become a serious business. Crocs Inc. reported record annual revenue of about $3.96 billion for 2023 (Crocs Investor Relations), and Birkenstock went public in October 2023 at a valuation of roughly $8.6 billion (Reuters). Shoes once mocked as clumsy are now everyday staples.
The practical point: "ugly" pieces wear well when they're about shape and color, not novelty. A mustard knit is easy to wear. A mustard knit with a cartoon print, clashing tights and a statement hat is hard.
As fashion stylists often note, "One odd thing looks like a decision. Three odd things look like an accident. Pick your one weird piece and let everything else stay quiet."
Which shoes make an outfit look ugly chic without looking like a joke?
Go for shoes that are a little heavy, a little old-fashioned or in an unexpected color, like olive leather, chunky loafers or a dull-toned flat, rather than novelty sneakers or exaggerated platforms. The shoe should look slightly "off," not like a gag.
1. Olive leather shoes instead of black or tan
Olive is the classic jolie laide color: it sits somewhere between military, moss and "is that brown?", which is exactly why it works. The Amber Grove Olive Shoes do this quietly. They read as a neutral from a distance and as a choice up close. Wear them with charcoal, cream or denim so the green is the only odd note.
2. Chunky loafers with visible socks
A slightly clumpy loafer with ribbed socks in oatmeal, burgundy or mustard is the easiest ugly-chic move there is. The sock-and-loafer combination looks a bit like a school uniform, which is the point. Browse the women's footwear collection for loafers with a thicker sole and a squared or rounded toe. For more color play below the hem, see our guide to colored tights outfits for fall.
How do odd proportions work without making you look shapeless?
Exaggerate one proportion and keep a clear line somewhere else: if the jacket is boxy or flared, keep the trousers straight. If the jeans are very wide, wear a fitted or cropped top. Shapeless happens when everything is oversized at once.
3. A peplum jacket that sits slightly too wide
Peplums used to be "flattering" in a very 2012 way. Worn now with a stiffer fabric and a more structured flare, they look a bit odd, almost Victorian. The Audra Peplum Jacket pairs well with straight-leg trousers or a narrow midi skirt, so the flare at the hip becomes the one strange shape.
4. Wide jeans that pool a little at the ankle
Very wide jeans that break heavily over the shoe look sloppy-on-purpose in a way that reads as confident. The Brooklyn Drift Wide Jeans have that volume. Balance them with a fitted knit or a short jacket, and let the hem fall over a chunky loafer, not a sleek heel.
5. A cropped jacket over a longer layer
A jacket that ends high on the waist, worn over a shirt or knit that hangs below it, creates a deliberately "wrong" stacked hemline. It's a small trick that makes a basic outfit look styled. If you like playing with jacket scale, our post on making a borrowed men's jacket work covers the opposite direction: going big rather than short.
Which colors look "ugly" in a good way for fall?
Olive, mustard, rust, tobacco brown, dusty plum and mossy khaki are the most wearable off-kilter fall colors, because they feel slightly muddy or old-fashioned but still sit close to neutrals. They clash softly instead of shouting.
The trick is pairing two "slightly wrong" colors that wouldn't normally go together, like olive with burgundy or mustard with lavender-grey, and keeping both muted. Bright versions of the same pairings look loud. Dusty versions look considered.
| Off-kilter color | Pairs quietly with | Avoid pairing with (gets loud) | Best piece to try it on |
|---|---|---|---|
| Olive | Burgundy, cream, charcoal, faded denim | Neon, bright red | Shoes, utility jacket |
| Mustard | Grey, navy, dusty lilac, chocolate brown | Bright purple, kelly green | Knitwear, socks, scarf |
| Rust / tobacco | Pale blue, olive, ivory | Hot pink, orange | Suede jacket, trousers |
| Dusty plum | Mustard, khaki, camel | Black-and-red combos | Pleated skirt, tights |
| Mossy khaki | Pink-beige, brown, white | Camouflage prints | Midi dress, shirt |
6. A mustard knit worn with grey or navy
Mustard is the color people say they "can't wear," which is why it's effective. Next to grey trousers or dark denim it looks deliberate and a little retro rather than loud. Keep the knit plain, no cables or prints, so the color does the work. The women's apparel collection has fall knits and tops in this earthy range.
7. A pleated midi in a muddy or "granny" shade
A pleated midi skirt or dress in a slightly dated shade, like plum, khaki or faded green, reads as thrifted-cool when worn with a plain tee and loafers. It's the quietest way to channel early Prada: modest shape, odd color, nothing flashy.
How do you style awkward silhouettes so they look intentional?
Repeat the oddity once (for example, a muted color in both your socks and your bag) and keep everything else clean, pressed and fitted where it counts. Intention shows in the details: tidy hair, a good belt, well-kept shoes.
8. An asymmetric or one-shoulder top
Asymmetry is the subtlest awkward silhouette: one side doesn't match the other, and the eye keeps returning to it. The Camellia One-Shoulder Shirt works for day under an open jacket, with straight trousers and flat shoes. Because the shape is odd, keep the color simple.
9. A slightly stiff, military-cut jacket
Structured jackets with boxy shoulders, epaulettes or extra pockets look a little severe on their own. Over a soft knit or a flowy midi, that severity becomes the interesting part. Add one quirky accessory from the accessories collection, like a heavy belt or an old-fashioned brooch, and stop there.
A quick checklist before you leave the house:
- Count the odd elements. One or two is chic. Three or more starts to look like costume.
- Check the fabric. Odd shapes look best in good fabrics: wool, leather, suede, crisp cotton. Flimsy versions look cheap rather than intentional.
- Anchor with a neutral. Grey, cream, navy or denim keeps the outfit grounded.
- Mind the fit. Something should fit properly, like the shoulders of the jacket or the waist of the trousers, even if the rest is loose.
- Skip novelty. No slogans, cartoon prints or joke accessories. Quiet ugly chic is about shape and color.
Is ugly chic still in style for fall 2026, or is it just a trend?
The loud, viral version cycles in and out, but the quiet version (odd colors, imperfect proportions, clumsy-but-good shoes) has run through fashion for three decades and keeps coming back. Built around wearable pieces, it works more like a personal style than a passing trend.
Because the quieter approach relies on staples like loafers, knits, wide jeans and structured jackets, the pieces outlast any single season. You're buying a mustard sweater, not a "trend item." If you're unsure whether you're building a style or chasing hype, our guide on personal style versus trend-chasing is a helpful gut-check. New fall pieces in these tones are landing in new arrivals now.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does jolie laide mean in fashion?
Jolie laide is French for "pretty-ugly." In fashion it describes clothes or looks that are attractive because of their imperfections, like an odd color, an awkward shape or an unconventional pairing, rather than in spite of them.
How do I wear ugly chic outfits without looking costumey?
Limit yourself to one or two odd elements, such as an olive shoe or a peplum jacket, and keep the rest of the outfit neutral and well-fitted. Avoid novelty prints and themed accessories, which push the look toward costume.
What colors are considered ugly chic?
Muted, slightly "off" shades like olive, mustard, rust, tobacco brown, dusty plum and mossy khaki are the classic ugly-chic palette. They look best in soft, unexpected pairings, such as olive with burgundy or mustard with grey.
Is understated ugly fashion office-appropriate?
Yes. The quiet version works well at work because it relies on staples like knits, loafers, structured jackets and pleated skirts. Keep the oddity to color or proportion, not exposed skin or loud prints, and it reads as polished.
What shoes go with ugly chic outfits?
Chunky loafers, olive or brown leather flats, clog-like shoes and slightly old-fashioned heeled boots all suit the look. Wearing them with visible ribbed socks in a muted color adds to the deliberately awkward effect.
Can ugly chic work for curvy or petite body types?
Yes. Choose which proportion to exaggerate based on your frame. Petite women often do best with cropped jackets and wide jeans that touch the shoe, while curvier women can use peplums and structured shoulders with a defined waist to keep shape.
Ready to try the quieter side of ugly chic? Shop olive shoes, odd-proportion jackets and earthy fall knits at oscarblackwood.com and pick your one weird piece for the season.